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Discovering Nova Scotia’s Quiet Southern Shore

  • Writer: Louise Orpin
    Louise Orpin
  • Mar 4
  • 4 min read

Updated: Apr 24

Long, deserted beaches stretch out, interrupted only by seabirds. Some are migrants, while others are rare species blown here by Atlantic storms.


Seals crest the waves, and seagulls screech above the beach. Mink scamper along the rocky shore. The tides bring kelp, driftwood, and shells.


The salt air is clear and clean for miles.


This is my island.


It is the place where I put down roots and decided to make a life. My home is in a small village on the island, set at the most southerly point of Nova Scotia.


The Beauty of Cape Sable Island


Cape Sable Island sits at the southernmost edge of Nova Scotia, where land gives way to the open Atlantic. The island is a hidden gem, offering tranquility and beauty.


The landscape is dotted with charming homes, each telling a story of its own. The gentle sound of waves lapping against the shore creates a soothing soundtrack. Here, nature thrives, and the pace of life slows down.


Embracing Nature


The island's natural beauty captivates me daily. The rolling dunes, lush grasses, and vibrant wildflowers create a picturesque scene. I often find myself wandering along the shoreline, collecting shells and watching the tides change.


The sunsets here are breathtaking. As the sun dips below the horizon, the sky transforms into a canvas of oranges, pinks, and purples. It’s a moment of pure magic, inviting me to pause and reflect.



Cape Sable Lighthouse: A Sentinel at the Edge of the Atlantic


The tallest lighthouse in Nova Scotia, "The Cape Light," was erected after the wreck of the SS Hungarian in 1860. This lighthouse sits offshore on a small islet, home to one resident and a surprising number of sheep.


History suggests that sheep were placed on the island grounds as a food supply for shipwrecked sailors. Local farmers have used the islet for summer grazing for generations. Boat access has become limited in recent years, but the view from shore at sunrise or sunset is unforgettable.


Clark's Harbour: A Working Harbour with Salt in Its Bones


My hometown is centered around a bustling harbour filled with working lobster boats, processing plants, and wharves. It is home to the "Cape Islander" dory, one of the most productive fishery districts in Nova Scotia. This area is part of the Barrington region, known as "The Lobster Capital of Canada."


But all of this came after I moved here. Before I started my guesthouse on Cape Sable Island, Nova Scotia, I had my first memory of the wonderful United Baptist Stone Church. Its hand-chiseled granite foundation is three feet thick, covered in smooth beach rock.


Inside, glorious stained glass windows and a massive wood vault styled as the underside of the Cape Island Dory quietly gleam over the congregation with affecting simplicity. The church sits on Main Street, overlooking a well-provisioned market. Further up are the library, elementary school, post office, and municipal offices.


There is a mechanic and the legion, interspersed with shingle-sided homes. Behind the offices sits a softball field with an adjacent park and boardwalk. A few small salt ponds and feeder streams are nearby. Ducks paddle up the little creeks and under the bridge that faces the ocean.


This is a perfect place to watch the sunset slide down the long west coast of the island. It is usually quiet, unless the Foggies are playing. Islanders are friendly, helpful, and generous with their time. The small-town charm and long conversations create a warm atmosphere.


The Hawk Beach: Caribbean North


My initial visit to the Hawk Beach was in August. I had come to buy a home but wanted to explore the island first. It was warm and sunny, with an impossibly blue sky and fresh salty air.


After a three-hour drive from the airport, I arrived at my B&B and wanted to stretch my legs. My hostess suggested a nearby beach and kindly gave me directions to The Hawk.


My first glimpse of the Hawk Beach left me overcome and gaping. It is a perfect stretch of packed sand gently sloping to a long waterline. Above the beach, dunes topped with sea grasses sway gently in the light breeze. The blue, clear water and lapping surf at low tide slide over scattered groups of weed-covered rocks.


Totally deserted during the height of summer, it is a time when other beaches would be packed with tourists. I made my mind up to move here immediately.


The Rhythm of Life at The East Wind


This is the rhythm of life at The East Wind — mornings by the water, afternoons exploring, and evenings gathered at the table.


The Hawk Beach at sunrise with guest swimming

Mornings here begin quietly on Cape Sable Island. Light stretches across the water before the world fully wakes.


The days unfold gently, inviting me to embrace each moment. I find joy in the simple pleasures, like sipping coffee while watching the sunrise or taking long walks along the shore.


As the sun sets, I gather with friends and family, sharing stories and laughter. The warmth of connection fills the air, creating memories that linger long after the day has ended.


In this peaceful haven, I have discovered the beauty of slow travel and meaningful connections with nature and local culture. The East Wind Guesthouse aims to be the top choice for travelers seeking a peaceful, intimate, and thoughtfully curated coastal retreat in Nova Scotia.


Here, I invite you to experience the magic of Cape Sable Island, where every moment is a treasure waiting to be discovered.

 
 
 

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